The historic district of LUANG PRABANG IN LAOS, sits on a high headland overlooking the meeting of the timeless Mekong and its younger sibling the Nam Khan.
At first we had dreamed of entering the Land of a Million Elephants via Thailand, spending two leisurely long days on the Mekong, floating downstream from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. But time decided otherwise and Bangkok Air filled the gap. We expected the air quality to improve as we left Bangkok and flew across country but the reverse happened.
In April 2010, smoke from slash and burn agriculture hung low over Luang Prabang, trapped in the Mekong River valley by the surrounding mountains. Only rain would clear the air and give relief from the 40 plus temperatures – but none came.
Our photos reflect the ever present spooky glow that limited our vision.
Spooky glow or not, a Mekong river trip was still high on our wish list, and the morning of our second day in Luang Prabang found us short-cutting with guide through the grounds of a local Wat, to join a group of about thirty travellers, on the banks above the Mekong, downstream from where it met the Nam Khan.
Discussion at the communal breakfast table at Manichan Guesthouse that morning had concluded that the trip to Pak Ou Caves, was one of those where the journey surpassed the destination.
Great – I loved river journeys and the caves were to my mind, incidental.
On our way to the river, the newly formed group bonded. Having booked with the same agency I assumed we would be in the same boat. But No. In the mysterious way things sometimes unfold in Asia, passenger’s names were called at random from a predetermined list, upon which they walked a lonely walk to the edge, descended a few steps and promptly disappeared from view. There were nervous jokes all round.
Our boat’s manifest was multi-national. Two from Australia (Marty and I) and one each from Thailand, China, France and U.S.A. As the boats were tied side by side, it was necessary to climb through all to reach the outer one.
Ours was the first boat, so we necessarily departed last.
Finally it was our turn to cast off and I couldn’t have imagined a more interesting mix of moored boats to line our route. There were working barges, boats sporting elaborate balustrades and I was just considering a large box of a boat as we pulled up at a floating petrol station.
With fuel in the tank, we continued upstream close by market gardens. At the end of the dry season the river was low but I imagine these gardens would be covered by water in a matter of weeks with the arrival of the wet season. Close to the river the land is fertile, watering is easy and a stick fence helps keep animals out of the crop.
I was in heaven being so close to such a variety of river craft.
- Same barge side view.
Just as we joined the faster moving midstream current the boat’s engine faltered, then stalled.
Our driver had no English, but we understood. Continuing to turn the engine over, he coaxed it back to life amidst an impromptu round of cheers. But then a cough, a splutter, and a final silence. We were an hour upstream of Luang Prabang as our driver paddled us toward the shore.
Our driver worked hard on the motor before admitting defeat. I am not sure of his thoughts as he later sat with head in hands, but I had a sneaking suspicion it was a bad batch of fuel.
Have you experienced a transport malfunction in your travels?
To see some other inspiring travel photos click on the link to TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY AT BUDGET TRAVELERS SANDBOX. Marooned on the Mekong Part 2
Tuesday in Townsville – Outriggers and Stingers on The Strand
Hi Jan – love the pics and the story behind them. I long to be travelling again overseas. I don’t think we have had a transport malfunction, just lots of waiting in airports, bus stations, ferry docks, etc.
Have a wonderful week.
Thanks Jill. It was an interesting trip. More to come.
What an adventure and a half!! We had issues with our motorhome fuel – all the lines had to be replaced.
Scary to be split up from the group, and then to be stranded by the rocks…love the boat with the washing.
How did you end up moving on..did you have to get into another boat, or was your one fixed.
The candy striped roof reminds me of lolly pops!
It was an adventure. There will be a follow up post with the rest of the story 🙂
This is such an awesome experience to be floating on the Mekong. I love the variety of boats you saw and seeing the life on the shore.
It was amazing, and quite different to what I thought it would be like. The smoke created havoc with visibility.
Great photos 🙂
Thank you Muza-chan 🙂
Oh no! How disappointing! Have I experienced a transport malfunction? Sadly, yes. The great thing is those experiences turn into great stories…after the fact. 🙂
Yes they do, and I thought it was fun (especially afterward).
What a bummer with the boat conking out. Visiting the Mekong River when we were in Vietnam was on my wish list but time didn’t allow for it. I’m sorry when I see your photos. I can’t imagine how they do it when the rains start – sounds like a lot of misery to me.
Hi Leigh, I think some of your hikes up mountains sound difficult, lol. Wouldn’t a Mekong trip through all the countries be amazing?
Oh, yes, several times, once on a boat in India in the middle of the night. It all worked out in the end, though – as most things do.
These floating houses look so unusual; I would love to saunter up or down the Mekong in one of these. Thanks for sharing this trip/tip.
I love the thought of doing a long trip on the Mekong. The changes as she flows through the different countries would be wonderful. I think we would have to do it individually though as the only trips that do the whole thing are luxurious and too expensive for our budget!
These boats are darling. They remind of how people move houses here. Sorry about the fuel situation. Sounds like something that would happen here.
In response to your question, I was going to say no then I remembered one of our last trips in SA. The brother of one of our friends offered to take us to a school in Soweto so we could donate supplies. He picked up all the kids and a few teachers in his bus — it was a Saturday morning. We were on time, then we ran out of gas and had to lug supplies — thankfully, we had many hands and we weren’t far from the school. While we made our way to the school, he went to look for gas. We had a good laugh as we walked to the school.
I think these mishaps add to the adventure definitely.
If I was going to Vietnam a trip on the Mekong would be on my list too. It looks so serene now than the memories from the war.
Oops meant Laos!
The Mekong goes through so many countries, it is a fantastic river. It reminds me of an old lady.
Oh no! As they say, it makes for a great story! Love getting to see all of the different types of boats on the river. Did you end up hopping aboard another boat?
I thought of it as a positive for sure. I will be doing a follow up post on the rest of the trip!
No really a malfunction, but we had a really bad crash in the middle of the Egyptian desert! It was crazy, and one of our passengers had a bleeding head injury.
He had to be taken to the hospital. We were in the middle of the desert for hours, until finally he was fine and released, and we got back to our desert oasis. Crazy huh?
– Maria Alexandra
A car crash? That would have been dreadful, especially for the guy with the head injury who then continued with the trip!
a very interesting post.
Thank you 🙂
It’s always, always good to have a real life adventure. I love the smoky feel of your photos. When shall I ever get to the Mekong… and be a backpacker again… well, in a few years I bet, but already looking forward to it.
I agree wholeheartedly and love real life adventures. Our backpacking adventures morphed into something different in our children, but now we are back into unencumbered travel again. Both good in their own way!
Hi Jan, bet you were thinking ” There are tons of boat our there, why oh why am I on this one?!!” But hey, if you weren’t on that boat there wasn’t this interesting story to tell!
I have had a transportation maltunction in Turkey traveling by bus from Cappadocia to Kusadasi. We were stalled for 3 hours. Fortunately, it was an overnight trip. Was very tired and slept off most part of it. But the locals were all wide awake, milling around the bus making a amazingly big fuss out of it.
I love the perspective of your shots. Really beautiful.
I enjoyed our little adventure. I have heard the buses are very reliable in Turkey so you must have been unlucky. Lucky it was night and you could sleep through most of it. We hope to spend a couple of months in Turkey this year possibly Mid August (Istanbul) till mid October (further south and inland). Did you just bus around by yourself?
Hi Jan, we traveled by plane from Istanbul to Cappodocial and then bus it around ouselves the rest of the trip. Yes, we were just unlucky with the particulary bus ride. The rest of the bus rides went really well. The buses there are very comfortable, spacious and they you e snack and tea. Have a wonderful trip.
Thanks for the info Marisol 🙂
What some beautiful pics, Jan and the idea of a trip on the Mekong sounds so romantic in an adventurous way. Loved the close-up photos of the boats 🙂
It was romantic and exciting. I would like to travel the whole length of the Mekong – what an adventure that would be.
What a great adventure. The best travel memories come from journeys like this one! Those house boats look as though they shouldn’t be able to float let alone function!! Love the images that illustrate the escapade!
I could not have asked for a better trip – more to come!
What eerily evocative colors in these photos! Although I’d love to take a boat trip on the Mekong, these boats don’t inspire a lot of confidence!
The sky was like this the whole time so that all our photos of L.P. are the same. I do wish it had rained so we could have seen it all clear – not that I am complaining, I loved it.
These is what makes Laos a remarkable place… Myanmar would have similar things to offer but of course, they are totally different places that offers different thngs too.
I think I would love Myanmar as well Lyndsay 🙂