When the streets of Sicily’s Capital, Palermo, get a little too hot and gritty, it’s time to escape to Cefalu for some cool seaside relaxation. It’s true that in Summer you’ll be far from alone in your admiration of Cefalu’s long beach and cute streets, but at other times of year it has a more relaxed vibe.
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How to Get to Cefalu from Palermo.
The trip only takes an average of 50 minutes by train, so if you’re time poor, it is possible to allocate as little as half a day to this medieval town. It is so easy, just hop on one of twenty trains each day from Palermo Centrale and get off at Cefalu.
We arrived by Regional train and mistakenly caught an Intercity on the return trip. It wasn’t a problem and the conductor just collected the extra payment on the train.
How to get to the old town.
Leave Cefalu station, turn right down Via Gramsci then follow Via Matteotti into the old town, the Duomo, La Rocca, Bastione Capo Marchiofava and the cute as a postcard Port.
When the Duomo first came into view it seemed lost amongst the restaurants and stage in the Piazza.
But with the Piazza behind us the Duomo and rock were impressive.
The Duomo’s mosaics are the oldest and best-preserved mosaics in Sicily – older than those in Cattedrale di Monreale in Palermo.
Glittering Byzantine mosaic of Christ All Powerful in central apse of Cefalu Duomo.
Although the central apse is all glitz and glamour, the rest of the Duomo is simplicity itself. These columns are thought to come from the ruined Tempio di Diana on La Rocca above.
Even though our visit was in Spring the weather was quite hot and climbing La Rocca lacked appeal. After checking out the the Duomo (don’t forget the cloisters) it was off to Bastione Capo Marchiofava for the views, before finding our spot on a port-side seat along with the retired fishermen and housewives.
La Rocca – The Rock – is accessible by a staircase, Salita Saracena, that climbs up through three layers of walls to where the first inhabitants – a race of giants says local folklore – lived. The view from the top is fantastic with views to the Aeolian islands.
The stark ambience of Bastione.
From the small fishing port we looked across to the beach and seafront promenade. The kids played football and when the ball inevitably landed in the water they jumped in to retrieve it. Such fun.
Down Via Vittorio Emanuele, at the end of XXV Novembre, look for an alcove of 16th Century wash basins known as Lavatoio. When you see a wide curved staircase shaded by large trees, descend to a cool spot where women traditionally did the family’s washing.
Lavatoio.
How to get to the beach from the Train Station.
On the other hand if you just want to lay like a Lizard on the beach, turn left into Via Gramsci, veer right into Via Martoglio and then it is a straight run down Via Vazzano, to bury your toes in sand. The section of beach near the old town is public, although you will still need to pay for an umbrella and sun chair, or lay on your towel directly on the sand budget travel style.
Public Beach, Cefalu.
Budget Travel Tips.
La Rocca – 3 Euro Entrance Fee.
Opening Hours are 9 am – 4.45 pm Oct/Apr. 9 am – 6.45 pm May/Sept.
Allow 30 minutes for the climb.
Train fares – Palermo to Cefalu. Regional trains are cheaper (5.60 euro) but slower than the faster Intercity trains (9 euro).
Thanks for reading and commenting – we really appreciate it. If you have a blog we would love you to add your travel post to the link below for Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday which we co-host with Ruth from Tanama Tales and Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.
Lan Ha Bay Vietnam rival for Halong Bay
Now that is one simply amazing Duomo. I love trains so what a perfect idea to take the train and end up in this charming place!
I love your photos! Cefalu definitely looks like some place I would love to visit! I have a friend traveling to Sicily next month – I’m going to have to fill her in on a cool place to go.
Ok ok! You’ve convinced me. I want to escape to Cefalu tomorrow! Sicily is on our agenda when we visit Italy in a few months time. I can’t wait!
Ha ha, Sicily is a great destination.
What a great city for a photo safari. Or maybe a pizza safari. Italy is at the top of my bucket list. Thanks for the tour.
I believe the pizzas are good in Cefalu too Sharon!
I really like the vibe of this town! Looks like it get very lively with its cafes and beaches. I am sure my husband would drag me to the top of La Roca. I mean, I like high places but I do not like when 200 flights of stairs are involved (making this up). I like your travel style (dress, sandals and crossbody bag). #TPThursday
I find wearing dresses and sandals (good walking sandals) is the coolest way to dress in a hot climate. I’m like you Ruth – I like the views from high up but I don’t like lots of stairs, especially on a hot day.
Fabulous! I can’t believe I’ve never heard of Cefalu!
Hi Jan, thank you for the great post and pictures. Cefalù is really a beautiful town.
Just a small correction: it’s not true that the mosaics in Cefalù are the oldest and best-preserved in Sicily. The mosaics in Cappella Palatina and Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio in Palermo are from 1943, the ones in Cefalù from 1948. And they are all wonderfully preserved.
I apologize for the mistake in my previous comment, of course the dates are 1143 and 1148…those mosaics weren’t done during WW2 for sure!
Cefalu looks gorgeous – I’ve never been to Sicily, but yes I’d love to visit. A train ride and gorgeous scenery, yes Please!
Sicily is Italian, but not, if you know what I mean Jo!
What a fabulous post! So many great pictures! This city looks great. I’ve never heard of this one. Thanks for sharing!
The apse of the Duomo is gorgeous and such a contrast to the rest of the building. Cefalu looks like a nice town. I look forward to the time when I can travel more leisurely and not be tied to school breaks (or work vacations either).
Yes it will be lovely when you can travel on your own timetable Michele!
Wow! Cefalu looks like a great place to visit. Thanks for the beautiful pics and useful information.
What a simply gorgeous old town. Really looks so peaceful there.