We had walked amongst and stood in awe of the inspiring ruins of Ani the once Armenian City (45 km east), but it would have been so good to spend another couple of days in Kars. The dark and menacing castle was beckoning, but we chose instead to spend our last remaining hours there walking the streets, absorbing the once grand buildings and enjoying the vibrant feel of the town. I guess it shows that of the towns we visited on our Eastern Turkey Road Trip, Kars was my favourite. I would also have liked to have visited Van, but it was too far away for us on this particular trip.
As we left Kars on 10th October, 2013, we slowed to accommodate the geese that wandered the outskirts – there was a story behind those gaggles. Nuran Ozyilmaz a local woman has broken the shackles and opened Kaz Evi (Goose Restaurant) selling – you guessed it – Roast Goose. Although women in the area have long raised geese to feed their families through the winter, a woman opening a restaurant was unheard of before Nuran. Her trail blazing has opened the door for other women who have traditionally lacked opportunities.
It wasn’t long before we had another animal encounter. These horses would be hard to spot at night on the dark roads, not to mention that trench in the centre of the road.
Trucks often carried huge loads. In one week’s driving we saw three single vehicle truck accidents, two of the trucks carrying no loads at all, the third being a fuel tanker. This load looked like it had been expertly packed, or so I told myself.
In Ardahan we parked in the first available spot and stretched our legs while collecting a few items for an impromptu picnic. Jumping back into the car we rounded a corner, only to get caught in traffic chaos caused by road excavations. When we eventually made our way through the town, we had to bypass a lovely area beside the river complete with picnic tables because of more roadworks. They were the first picnic tables we had seen on the trip, so we weren’t hanging out for more. Traffic was minimal so we just pulled over and sat beside the road. You can see Ardahan in the background of this shot.
Our picnic only had three ingredients, but what ingredients they were. The (gifted) tomato was bursting with flavour and the bread fresh from the bakery was crusty on the outside and soft and delicious on the inside. We had to try a few places before we were able to buy a smallish slab of cheese. It was delicately (mild) flavoured but complimented the tomato. Turkish Tomatoes always stole the show!
More Picnic views, and more geese.
Looking back toward Ardahan as the road started climbing again.
A group of about twenty or more log cabins at the Yakari Kocabey Yayla near the highest mountain pass. Yayla ( highland) can mean summer pasture for the animals, or a summer mountain resort.
The Cam Pass (2640m). Posts for measuring snow were common on the roads in Eastern Turkey.
You knew there was going to be more animal photos!
Coming down from the mountains was like discovering a lost Eden. The Savsat Valley was a sight to behold. We stopped and looked in amazement. Were we really in Turkey? The spectacular mountain scenery of Karagol Sahara National Park can be explored from Savsat. Just ten minutes out of town on the road to Artvin, when you see Savsat Castle on the right, take the road to Velikoy.
As we got closer to Artvin dam structures appeared.
Deriner Dam. In the distance Artvin clings to the mountain.
The switchbacks went on forever – we never found the end of them – instead we found a park outside the Midros Supermarket and continued on foot. Finding the Karahan Hotel closed, some locals stepped in and directed us to the Mersivan Otel where we found a double room with breakfast for 80tl. At breakfast we sat on the enclosed back verandah that teetered over the drop with the sun warming us and views up and down the mountain and across the valley. Isn’t life wonderful?
We are linked to Budget Travelers Sandbox for Travel Photo Thursday.
A Self Guided Walk at Riverway Townsville
Beautiful place….
I kept scrolling through your photos going wow, then wow again. What a fabulous trip and you have inspired me to visit the area one day. I never would have considered it before.
What an amazing road trip. I’d love to explore Turkey like you’re doing. The scenery is beautiful and your photos are great. I love the overloaded truck and all the animals on the road!
I am in absolute awe, Jan. 🙂 What an incredible road trip! That green valley would’ve been staggeringly beautiful after so much scrub and brown. And that tomato? Oh my word – I can almost smell it. 🙂
You have bought back some beautiful memories for me. I too loved the drive and Savsat national park. About time, I published the posts though!
Hi Natalie, You were the first person that alerted me to this beautiful valley. I remembered reading about you being there on a tour and wishing you could have stopped and spoken to the people. Funny how it turned out that we were so rushed that we didn’t get to stop either!
Life is definitely wonderful when exploring Turkey! Savsat Valley – wow! Absolutely stunning. And I agree that Turkish tomatoes are the best, especially considering that I’m not at all a tomato person. I can’t wait to go back to Turkey and explore the eastern region.
Hi Dana, We don’t usually revisit countries but Turkey is definitely a Revisit.
Jan, your photos are captivating. I love them all. That picnic looks so good, and now I need to try a turkish tomatoe! The geese are fab, and hats off to Nuran for breaking the mold!
Thanks Nancie, I am reliving this roadtrip and actually feel like I am doing it for real 🙂
Jan, I love Eastern Turkey, and your pictures bring me back there. Artvin is an interesting place. In the summer they have a different kind of bullfight…which is great to watch. Next time, do make it to Van, you will not regret it. The cheese pictures is called Kashar cheese, and it can be found all over Turkey. Did you buy it in Kars? It does indeed go well with the best tomatoes in the world!
Hi Corinne, Thanks for telling me the name of the cheese. We bought it in Ardahan. I am off to read about your sheep herders now. 🙂
Life is wonderful, Jan. I’m really enjoying seeing Turkey through your eyes. A friend of mine is on a 2-week trip there now but I’m sure she won’t be visiting any of the sites you’ve covered so far.
Really sad to hear about the tragedy there.
Those animals in the road remind me of driving in the countryside in Jamaica.
Your friend will have a lovely time sticking to Istanbul and the West Coast/Cappadocia, the normal tourist areas. We loved them too, but ventured to the east because we had six weeks altogether. I love the animals, glad to hear Jamaica is the same 🙂
Wow, this part of Turkey seems sooooo remote and full of animals – I’m sure you must have a lot of patience and pack picnic food…btw i love Turkish cheeses!
This was the only picnic we had Noel and we bought the ingredients in the previous town 5 minutes away, lol. 🙂
What an eventful and unforgettable trip and so unexpected for Eastern Turkey. I’m loving all the wildlife photos especially all that geese. But, just Wow on the Savsat Valley scenery. That is just stunning!
Thanks for following the journey Mary. Savsat Valley was a surprise package for sure – so beautiful.
That’s an incredible variety of pictures for 1 day of driving. The snowy cabins, the yellow and green trees, that physics-defying truck, the switchbacks, and all those animals. The lunch looks deliciously simple and perfectly suited to the environment. No wonder you were in Turkey for so long.
Thanks Michele, and we are considering visiting Turkey again 🙂
Hi Jan, another day of awesome road trip! I enjoyed all the animal scenea on the road. Savsat Valley is like Eden indeed. So breathtaking. The lush green mountain against the snowy peak in the background is quite a vista. And the view from your hotel – magnificent!
I don’t think I have ever driven up such a steep town as Artvin and we got nowhere near the top. 🙂